The pleasant Belgian commune of Linkebeek was once home to countless cafes and coaching inns.
That was at the start of the 20th century and, nowadays, few of these are left.
Happily, one does remain and is proving as big a hit as ever.
It is called La Laiterie and a potted history of both the area and restaurant can be found on the inside page of the menu.
It makes fascinating, if brief, reading.
You learn that people would visit the aforementioned inns from far and wide, including Brussels to enjoy their conviviality.
The phrase “Toernee Generale” – roughly meaning “drinks all round” – is typical of what you may have heard at the time.
Fast forward to 2023 and this lovely resto is still attracting customers from a wide area, all drawn to its enviable reputation for very good food and hospitality.
It may not quite amount to “drinks all round” but the emphasis on friendliness and “un bon moment” remains.
It had been a resto for many years but was given a completely new lease of life by the current owner Julien Golde.
Julien took over five years ago and gave it a total refurbishment while retaining some of its historic and oldest features such as the bar and nice floor tiling.
In terms of access, it is well situated, part of a “triangle” of three communes (Uccle and Beersel being the other two) and not far at all from the Brussels Ring.
Its Belgian-born head chef Patrick De Hertogh has been on Julien’s successful culinary journey virtually since day one and, alongside a hard-working team, oversees the creation of some lovely dishes.
These include those great Belgian/French classics and regional dishes like vol-au-vent, boulettes, carbonades, jambonneau which can be served with frites which, here, are cooked twice in fat to give them a particularly distinctive taste.
But the “star” of the house here (and people come specially for it) is the meat which comes in different guises, ranging from filet mignon and entrecote to a particularly succulent filet of best Irish beef.
This resto is a real delight for meat lovers and it’s worth noting that it is cooked a special way: in an indoor coal BBQ which affords the meat a smoky and especially flavoursome taste.
However, if red meat is not your thing there are plenty of other, equally excellent options, such as a range of fish and veggie dishes.
To finish off a very satisfying dining experience there is a nice selection of deserts and a great wine/drinks list to accompany your meal.
Continuity and tradition is big here and Julien pays homage to that great Belgian tradition of eating good old roast chicken on the Sabbath by serving a Sunday special: a half roast chicken with compot and frites, all at the very affordable price of €19.50pp.
There is a €16pp lunch option (a dish of the day), available from Tuesday to Friday (it is closed on Monday) and which changes every day apart from Friday when (another old tradition) the dish is fish.
From 11.30am on Tuesday to Saturday, people are also very welcome to pop in for a coffee or aperitif or a light snack and tapas later in the afternoon.
Julien has a hard working team, including Louis,Laure and Eric, to call on and all contribute to a visit here being very pleasant, relaxing and enjoyable.
This place is also one of the few restaurants that genuinely welcome youngsters and, all parents will know that this is vital, actually makes a real effort to keep them busy during a meal.
There is a specially created and very well appointed space towards the rear of the resto where the young ones can occupy themselves before/after a meal or while the grown ups are eating.
It is a cosy and comforting place to eat with some fantastic photos, mostly black and white, retracing the history of the building that dates back as far as 1812 and also the immediate area.
You will also, surely, be struck by the sheer passion, knowledge and energy of Julien who graduated in hotel management and studied in some of the best establishments in France and Belgium.
Despite it being located on a busy road, entering this eatery is a bit like stepping back in time and the menu, in the main, is a reminder of what Belgium still does as well as anyone, anywhere.
Apart from first class cuisine and service it also boasts something else that makes it rather unique.
To maintain the suspense it might be best paying a visit to find out but here’s a clue: it’s something you might normally see grazing in a field.
La Laiterie
Chaussee d’Alsemberg 3, Linkebeek
02 378 4468
www.lalaiterie.be
