The historic battlefield site of Waterloo is now home to a thriving multi-activity business
Battlelines will be drawn next weekend (22/23 June) when Napoleon and Wellington again go head to head on the fields of Belgium.
Throughout the weekend, more than 300 re-enactor troops will camp in bivouacs at Napoleon’s last headquarters and in the orchard of Hougoumont Farm, Napoleon’s last HQ.
Various activities, both civilian and military, will be offered to entertain families.
The colourful battle re-enactment will take place on Saturday evening and Sunday morning and fierce (if, this time, friendly) combat between French and allied troops is sure to unfold.
The annual anniversary of the famous Battle of Waterloo is a timely chance also to showcase the aptly named Waterloo Brewery nearby which is preparing to celebrate this key landmark in history in its own way by showcasing its iconic range of beers.
The brewery is located at Ferme de Mont-Saint-Jean which was created by the order of the Templars and is a 1,000-year-old site located right at the heart of the once-bloody Waterloo battlefield.
The microbrewery where the hugely popular and successful Waterloo Beer is brewed is located within the walls of Mont-Saint-Jean Farm, continuing a brewing activity here that dates back to the early 15th century.
Back then, the two Brabants (Flemish and Walloon) were renowned for their vast hop fields and the historic farm reminds us that beer production was an essential activity often carried out by farmers. This strong link with the past is one of the values still dear to the Waterloo brewery and its modern-day owners.
Waterloo beer, in fact, experienced a spectacular revival in 2014 under the leadership of Anthony Martin who revitalized the brand at Ferme de Mont-Saint-Jean just before the bicentenary of the Battle of Waterloo. His family’s story is even told in an on-site film/light show.
A special feature of its German-made micro distillery is that it can distil by means of two very different processes: a pot still, which is used for whisky, and a column still, which is used for gin. Both are sold at the on-site shop, along with several beers.
The bustling and ever-evolving activities now taking place at this family-owned venue are a fitting memorial to the Battle and a rebirth of the whole site, which, as well as the brewery, is home to a rich assortment of things, including guided tours, degustation, a “speakeasy” bar and a lovely brasserie.
The expansive, glass panelled 140-seat “La brasserie de Waterloo” resto and its enormous 500 square metre terrace (ideal for summer if it ever arrives) boast breath taking views over the battlefield, including the iconic Lion’s Mound Memorial.
It’s gained an enviable reputation for some very tasty classic Belgian (and other) dishes such as carbonnades and waterzooi along with carpaccio and fondu fromage de Herve. Considering the quality the prices are very reasonable.
There are no less than 16 beers on tap which are directly connected, via underground pipes, to the brewery across the vast courtyard. You can also sample some, such as the Triple Blonde, the Double and the Cuvée Impériale, an exceptional dark beer. All are produced using local ingredients and some are stored in tanks right in the middle of resto.
Imaginatively, some of the beers produced on site are also used in the dishes, including Waterloo Red Cherry (carbonnades), Martin’s Pale Ale (waterzooi) and Waterloo Oak gin (saumon marine).
The “Waterloo experience” is made complete with a handmade chalice (also available for purchase) by an artisan potter from Charleroi which affords an authentic way to taste these exceptional beers.
It’s not just beers made here but, perhaps surprisingly for beer-loving Belgium, whisky and gin (three types of each) including The Brancardier which Jim Murray, the world’s most renowned independent whisky expert describes as “unique”.
Whisky is matured for up to 5 years in 200 barrels/casks stored underground and which can be observed from a small “viewing deck” at the entrance to the brasserie.
The inside of the distillery can be seen as it’s located right next to the resto and its single cast malt is so good it was awarded the prestigious gold medal at the World Whisky Awards (Small Batch category).
Those with kids are not overlooked as there is also a particularly well-equipped playground to keep the little ‘uns occupied while the grown-ups enjoy the delicious food and drink.
Worth noting too that much of the produce and ingredients used in the kitchen is from local, eco-responsible and short-circuit agricultural sources and is very seasonal. Even unsold bread from its bakery is currently being “recycled” in a test beer so as to ensure nothing goes to waste.
There’s a €28pp, 2-course business lunch, a fixed menu and look out too for the hugely-popular Sunday brunch (booking essential) which has a good choice of hot and cold dishes.
The place is not just about food though as it really is steeped in history.
For instance, on 18 June 1815, the Duke of Wellington used Mont-Saint-Jean Farm as a field hospital as it was at the very centre of the battlefield and, today, a small on-site museum pays homage to both the combatants and the medical skills of the period.
The museum (admission is just €5pp) contains some remarkable items and illustrations allowing you to discover how up to 7,000 wounded soldiers were treated: a real must-see among battlefield museums.
According to contemporary eyewitnesses, countless lives were saved thanks to the proximity of this medical facility where amputated limbs “piled up in the four corners of the farm’s courtyard”.
The farm is recognised as having played an important role in the battle but, nowadays, as can be seen, Mont-Saint-Jean Farm has become very well known (almost a tourist attraction in itself) for the restaurant, distillery, brewery, museum and well-stocked shop and bakery and it also provides space for special occasions and meetings.
This site was the setting of an event – commemorated in the upcoming re-enactment – that changed the course of history. This rich history, spanning from the Middle Ages via the Battle of Waterloo to the present day, gives Mont-Saint-Jean Farm its character and fame.
The farm, conveniently located just off the Ring on the Waterloo/Braine l’Alleud border, is listed as a heritage site by the Walloon Region and, since opening a few years ago, has gained worldwide fame, now attracting tens of thousands of visitors each year.
Later this year, Waterloo Uncovered, the groundbreaking charity, will be back on this very site for their latest archaeological project. Since 2015 it has been uncovering the archaeological secrets of Waterloo and will be aiming to do the same again in September.
Before then, though, the bivouacs (camps) at this weekend’s battle re-enactment are open on both June 22 and 23 while the battle itself takes place on Saturday evening and Sunday morning.
If you are among the thousands who will be heading to watch events this weekend you really should also check out the wonderful Mont-Saint-Jean Farm just across the way.
Unlike the Emperor back in 1815 you’re sure to leave with a big, satisfied smile on your face.
Ferme Mont-Saint-Jean
Chau de Charleroi 592, Waterloo
02 655 6262
